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Topo map of the routes on this page
Download Printable Red Wall Topo - PDF 1.51 mb

Orgasmophoria - 5.10c
Protection - 13 bolts plus the anchor

1st pitch - Climb Phantasmagoria - 5.10b
2nd pitch - 150 feet of face climbing through the blonde bulge to the top. Excellent position and exposure. Use two 60m ropes on the Super Slab rap for the descent.

First Ascent - Ted Stahl, Jeff Frizzell, Brett Yost
February 2003

Bay of Pigs - 5.10c
Protection -13 bolts plus the anchor

1st pitch - 10b tiptoe onto a ledge and then ascend the face on knobs and pockets through an A-shaped roof to the anchor at 80 feet.
2nd pitch - Continue up in one long 10c pitch finishing on the prow left of Super Slab. Use two 60m ropes on the Super Slab rap for the descent.

First Ascent - 1st pitch- Ted Stahl, Jeff Frizzell, Jim Ablao 2nd Pitch - Jeff Frizzell, Ted Stahl
March 2003

Animal Farm - 5.10b
Protection - Bolts

Begin behind a boulder and climb 70 feet to the 1st pitch anchor on Super Slab.

First Ascent - (to Super Slab anchors) Ted Stahl, Jeff Frizzell
February 2003

 

 


 

Papillion - 5.8
Protection - Bolts

Begin downhill and to the right of Super Slab. Climb through buckets and up a slab for 70 feet.

First Ascent - Jeff Frizzell, Jim Ablao
February 2003

Gulag Archipelago - 5.11 c/d
Protection - Bolts

Four exciting pitches with great position and engaging cruxes!
1st pitch - thin 11b crux. Climb past 13 bolts to the anchor.
2nd pitch - 11c/d Step up and climb the exposed face through a short roof. Finesse a thin traverse to the anchor at the bottom of the water streak.
3rd pitch - 10d/11a Climb the water streak through the obvious crux bulge to the anchor above and to the right of the streak.
4th pitch - 5.9 Cruise past 4 bolts on steep blocky edges with great exposure to the top.
Descent:
60m rope - Scramble down the gully left of the top to the anchor on the 3rd pitch. Rap to descent anchor angling right. Rap to the anchor on the 1st pitch. Rap to the ground.
2x60m ropes - Scramble down the gully left of the top to the anchor on the 3rd pitch. Rap to the 2nd pitch anchor. Rap to the ground.
Or climb up the gully and walk down the Misery Ridge trail.

Jeff Frizzell, Jim Ablao
February 2003

[Route descriptions by Jim Ablao]

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