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Here are a few
new routes for you trad climbers to check out if you feel like doing
something new. These climbs are not classics, nor will they ever
be in their current states, but if you are adventurous and looking
for something different, you might enjoy them. Rebolts were used
in place of regular bolts in numerous locations. Please try to refrain
from and be cautious to avoid knocking rocks onto the trail below.
Unnamed
- Right of Snibble Tower
5.10 R -Helmets, Gear to 5 inches, four 1/2" Rebolts, 60 meter rope
mandatory.
This climb starts
on the obvious flake crack with a sage brush at the base of it about
75 feet right of Snibble Tower.
1st Pitch -
Climb up good holds and knobs to the ledge leading into the wide
crack/chimney, climb this 100 feet to a rebolt hole. From the rebolt,
climb up to an optional belay or keep climbing another 35 feet (1
rebolt), to the next belay. (55 meter pitch or one 40 meter pitch
and one 15 meter pitch)
2nd Pitch -
Climb knobs and edges past two bolts into the shallow dihedral (tcu's
or Aliens). Exit left out of the dihedral (crux) past a rebolt and
then follow bolts and rebolt holes to the next belay. (30 meter
pitch)
3rd Pitch -
Climb into the shallow dihedral until possible to step right to
the slabby pocketed crack. Follow the crack until it ends and easy
climbing leads to large bowl. Step right out of the bowl and climb
the long final slab (mixed rebolts/bolts) to the top. Belay at large
purple boulder with single bolt anchor. (57 meter pitch).
Rappel down
Wherever I May Roam anchors or walk off.
Description
by Ryan
Lawson, October 27, 2003
Farewell
to Smith
5.10+ - Gear:
doubles of cams to three inches and stoppers are recommended
Thomas Emde
and Steve Baldwin did the first free ascent of the unnamed crack
above Snibble Tower on the Arrowpoint. They called it Farewell To
Smith and rated it 5.10+ which probably means 5.11a. It has some
incredible rock on the first pitch and a bit of not so great rock
on the second.
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Hike up the
back of the Smith Rock Group or climb up White Satin or any other
route topping out and walk over to the north side of the Arrowpoint.
Boulder to the anchor just out of reach and rappel 30 or 40 ft.
to reach a ledge that the climb starts from (400 feet off the deck).
1st pitch, 130
ft. - Slightly loose and easy climbing leads to an obvious roof
and excellent finger locks. Steep sustained .10+ fingers above leads
to a rest and more steep fun. A double set of Camalots to #3 was
almost completely spent and more wired nuts would have been helpful.
The belay consists of one bolt backed up with some gear. There is
an empty hole for a second bolt, as there is at the base of the
pitch.
2nd pitch -
Very loose 5.6 leads to the top. One bolt belay and a good stance
on the summit. Rap and/or scramble down the west side to the rap
route next to Wherever I May Roam.
Description
by Steve Baldwin and
Ryan Lawson, May 10,
2004
Open Project
- Kiss of the Lepers Area
5.11? Gear to 4 inches (two 60 meter ropes for rappel)
This climb is
on the furthest left and most downhill piece of the Kiss of the
Lepers formation. It climbs the obvious dihedral and huge roof crack.
Feel free to give it a try. It will make most people cringe just
looking at it, but who knows, maybe there is someone out there who
can free it. I would love to get the first free ascent but honestly
I'm too busy and would just love to see it get climbed.
1st Pitch -
Stem and jam up the sometimes awkward crack 40 meters until possible
to step left to a two bolt belay on a ledge.
2nd Pitch -
Wide stems and jams and jugs made of petrified bird guano lead up
to the giant roof. Ridiculously contorted and wide stems or a combination
of foot jams and hand stacks lead to an extremely physical offwidth
exit with your feet 180 feet straight above your pack.
One double rope
rappel with 60 meter ropes makes it to the ground.
Description
by Ryan
Lawson, October 27, 2003
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