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Here are a few new routes for you trad climbers to check out if you feel like doing something new. These climbs are not classics, nor will they ever be in their current states, but if you are adventurous and looking for something different, you might enjoy them. Rebolts were used in place of regular bolts in numerous locations. Please try to refrain from and be cautious to avoid knocking rocks onto the trail below.

Unnamed - Right of Snibble Tower
5.10 R -Helmets, Gear to 5 inches, four 1/2" Rebolts, 60 meter rope mandatory.

This climb starts on the obvious flake crack with a sage brush at the base of it about 75 feet right of Snibble Tower.

1st Pitch - Climb up good holds and knobs to the ledge leading into the wide crack/chimney, climb this 100 feet to a rebolt hole. From the rebolt, climb up to an optional belay or keep climbing another 35 feet (1 rebolt), to the next belay. (55 meter pitch or one 40 meter pitch and one 15 meter pitch)

2nd Pitch - Climb knobs and edges past two bolts into the shallow dihedral (tcu's or Aliens). Exit left out of the dihedral (crux) past a rebolt and then follow bolts and rebolt holes to the next belay. (30 meter pitch)

3rd Pitch - Climb into the shallow dihedral until possible to step right to the slabby pocketed crack. Follow the crack until it ends and easy climbing leads to large bowl. Step right out of the bowl and climb the long final slab (mixed rebolts/bolts) to the top. Belay at large purple boulder with single bolt anchor. (57 meter pitch).

Rappel down Wherever I May Roam anchors or walk off.

Description by Ryan Lawson, October 27, 2003

Farewell to Smith
5.10+ - Gear: doubles of cams to three inches and stoppers are recommended

Thomas Emde and Steve Baldwin did the first free ascent of the unnamed crack above Snibble Tower on the Arrowpoint. They called it Farewell To Smith and rated it 5.10+ which probably means 5.11a. It has some incredible rock on the first pitch and a bit of not so great rock on the second.

 

 

 

Hike up the back of the Smith Rock Group or climb up White Satin or any other route topping out and walk over to the north side of the Arrowpoint. Boulder to the anchor just out of reach and rappel 30 or 40 ft. to reach a ledge that the climb starts from (400 feet off the deck).

1st pitch, 130 ft. - Slightly loose and easy climbing leads to an obvious roof and excellent finger locks. Steep sustained .10+ fingers above leads to a rest and more steep fun. A double set of Camalots to #3 was almost completely spent and more wired nuts would have been helpful. The belay consists of one bolt backed up with some gear. There is an empty hole for a second bolt, as there is at the base of the pitch.

2nd pitch - Very loose 5.6 leads to the top. One bolt belay and a good stance on the summit. Rap and/or scramble down the west side to the rap route next to Wherever I May Roam.

Description by Steve Baldwin and Ryan Lawson, May 10, 2004

Open Project - Kiss of the Lepers Area
5.11? Gear to 4 inches (two 60 meter ropes for rappel)

This climb is on the furthest left and most downhill piece of the Kiss of the Lepers formation. It climbs the obvious dihedral and huge roof crack. Feel free to give it a try. It will make most people cringe just looking at it, but who knows, maybe there is someone out there who can free it. I would love to get the first free ascent but honestly I'm too busy and would just love to see it get climbed.

1st Pitch - Stem and jam up the sometimes awkward crack 40 meters until possible to step left to a two bolt belay on a ledge.

2nd Pitch - Wide stems and jams and jugs made of petrified bird guano lead up to the giant roof. Ridiculously contorted and wide stems or a combination of foot jams and hand stacks lead to an extremely physical offwidth exit with your feet 180 feet straight above your pack.

One double rope rappel with 60 meter ropes makes it to the ground.

Description by Ryan Lawson, October 27, 2003

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