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This is not
your typical Ryan Lawson bolted route. We tried very hard to keep
it exciting but still make it a route that people would want to
repeat. The majority of the route has been well cleaned but like
any new route it is not a perfect classic right now. With a few
ascents it should clean up very quickly. Please have fun, be careful,
enjoy the experience and the exposure.
The Good
Ol' Days
5.11c -12 quickdraws, runners, medium and large stoppers, #2 & #3
TCU's, 60 meter rope mandatory.
This exciting
route tackles one of the largest faces at Smith Rock. It is a little
known but often looked at face on the Smith Rock Group called the
Arrowpoint. Usually it is referred to as "Snibble Tower" which is
the name of the only other route climbing it.
It is mostly
bolted which was quite the undertaking considering the size of the
climb.
1st Pitch -
5.11a, 180', bolts:
Easy moves on pocketed rock lead to an exceptionally dirty ledge
(literally rains down dirt)and an easy ramp. Stepping out of the
chimney onto the face to the right is the crux of this pitch. Above
the crux a beautiful moderate pocketed water streak awaits you.
From the top of the water streak head up and left to the belay.
2nd Pitch -
5.10c, 100', bolts, medium stoppers, #3 TCU:
Stem and face climb the clean dihedral until possible to step left
(one hard move) onto the slabby bolted face. Moderate face climbing
leads up to a good stance on a slab.
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3rd Pitch -
5.10a, bolts & optional #10 or #11 stopper:
A forgettable slab leads to a crack and an exciting step left around
the arete. After the arete airy moves on a beautiful face lead to
a comfortable stance below a beautiful arete.
4th Pitch -
5.11c, 100', bolts:
Steep, pumpy, and airy best describe this pitch. Step left off of
the belay and start pulling your way up the beautiful flake crack.
A much needed no hands rest is just over half way up. Exciting moves
on great rock lead to the belay on a pedestal.
5th Pitch -
5.10d, 85', optional #2 TCU above last bolt:
Exceptional face climbing up a steep face leads to a good stance
below the final scramble.
6th Pitch -
5.6, 75'
Optional larger protection would help you here but it is very unlikely
that you would want to carry it up here with you so just enjoy the
easy scrambling and the view.
Decent - Downclimb
the easy fifth class back side and walk down and around the Smith
Rock Group or go down to the Wherever I May Roam anchors and rappel.
Do not try to rappel the route as reversing the fourth pitch would
be near impossible.
F.F.A. Thomas
Emde 6/27/04
Description
by Ryan
Lawson, June 28, 2004
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