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This is not your typical Ryan Lawson bolted route. We tried very hard to keep it exciting but still make it a route that people would want to repeat. The majority of the route has been well cleaned but like any new route it is not a perfect classic right now. With a few ascents it should clean up very quickly. Please have fun, be careful, enjoy the experience and the exposure.

The Good Ol' Days
5.11c -12 quickdraws, runners, medium and large stoppers, #2 & #3 TCU's, 60 meter rope mandatory.

This exciting route tackles one of the largest faces at Smith Rock. It is a little known but often looked at face on the Smith Rock Group called the Arrowpoint. Usually it is referred to as "Snibble Tower" which is the name of the only other route climbing it.

It is mostly bolted which was quite the undertaking considering the size of the climb.

1st Pitch - 5.11a, 180', bolts:
Easy moves on pocketed rock lead to an exceptionally dirty ledge (literally rains down dirt)and an easy ramp. Stepping out of the chimney onto the face to the right is the crux of this pitch. Above the crux a beautiful moderate pocketed water streak awaits you. From the top of the water streak head up and left to the belay.

2nd Pitch - 5.10c, 100', bolts, medium stoppers, #3 TCU:
Stem and face climb the clean dihedral until possible to step left (one hard move) onto the slabby bolted face. Moderate face climbing leads up to a good stance on a slab.

 

 

 

3rd Pitch - 5.10a, bolts & optional #10 or #11 stopper:
A forgettable slab leads to a crack and an exciting step left around the arete. After the arete airy moves on a beautiful face lead to a comfortable stance below a beautiful arete.

4th Pitch - 5.11c, 100', bolts:
Steep, pumpy, and airy best describe this pitch. Step left off of the belay and start pulling your way up the beautiful flake crack. A much needed no hands rest is just over half way up. Exciting moves on great rock lead to the belay on a pedestal.

5th Pitch - 5.10d, 85', optional #2 TCU above last bolt:
Exceptional face climbing up a steep face leads to a good stance below the final scramble.

6th Pitch - 5.6, 75'
Optional larger protection would help you here but it is very unlikely that you would want to carry it up here with you so just enjoy the easy scrambling and the view.

Decent - Downclimb the easy fifth class back side and walk down and around the Smith Rock Group or go down to the Wherever I May Roam anchors and rappel. Do not try to rappel the route as reversing the fourth pitch would be near impossible.

F.F.A. Thomas Emde 6/27/04

Description by Ryan Lawson, June 28, 2004

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