Chat Room
Current News
Special Features
Video Features
Related Links

Freedom Is Just Another Word For Nothing Left To Lose
5.12a - Gear: one set of TCU’s and cams to 2” and 1 set stoppers.
A 70-meter rope or two ropes are needed to rappel.

Currently a variation to The Good Ol’ Days, this route goes straight to the top above the third pitch belay.

1st Pitch - 5.11a, 180', bolts:
Easy moves on pocketed rock lead to an exceptionally dirty ledge (literally rains down dirt)and an easy ramp. Stepping out of the chimney onto the face to the right is the crux of this pitch. Above the crux a beautiful moderate pocketed water streak awaits you. From the top of the water streak head up and left to the belay.

2nd Pitch - 5.10c, 100', bolts, medium stoppers, #3 TCU:
Stem and face climb the clean dihedral until possible to step left (one hard move) onto the slabby bolted face. Moderate face climbing leads up to a good stance on a slab.

3rd Pitch - 5.10a, bolts & optional #10 or #11 stopper:
A forgettable slab leads to a crack and an exciting step left around the arete. After the arete airy moves on a beautiful face lead to a comfortable stance below a beautiful arete.

4th Pitch - 5.12a, 75 feet, 6 bolts:
After your 350+ foot warm up, delicately climb knobs and crimps up the right side of the stunning arete. Even after the difficulties ease, the wildly exposed position, bolt spacing, and the nature of the climbing keeps your attention.

5th Pitch - 5.11b, TCU's, cams to 2 inches, and full set of stoppers.
After leaving the belay, you very quickly get down to business. This crack is steep and you are on your arms the whole time. About 50 feet out from the belay look for the exit to the bolted headwall. Perfect stone covered with beautiful edges and pockets leads to a very exciting finish. Big clean falls are possible on this pitch.

Decent- Please use two ropes or a 70-meter rope and rappel the route. A 60-meter could leave you within inches of the belay. Another option is topping out and walking off.

F.F.A. Thomas Emde, Jim Abalo 8-6-04

Description by Ryan Lawson, August 9, 2004