Just Another Word For Nothing Left To Lose
5.12a - Gear:
one set of TCU’s and cams to 2” and 1 set stoppers.
A 70-meter rope or two ropes are needed to rappel.
variation to The Good Ol’ Days, this
route goes straight to the top above the third pitch belay.
1st Pitch -
5.11a, 180', bolts:
Easy moves on pocketed rock lead to an exceptionally dirty ledge
(literally rains down dirt)and an easy ramp. Stepping out of the
chimney onto the face to the right is the crux of this pitch. Above
the crux a beautiful moderate pocketed water streak awaits you.
From the top of the water streak head up and left to the belay.
2nd Pitch -
5.10c, 100', bolts, medium stoppers, #3 TCU:
Stem and face climb the clean dihedral until possible to step left
(one hard move) onto the slabby bolted face. Moderate face climbing
leads up to a good stance on a slab.
3rd Pitch -
5.10a, bolts & optional #10 or #11 stopper:
A forgettable slab leads to a crack and an exciting step left around
the arete. After the arete airy moves on a beautiful face lead to
a comfortable stance below a beautiful arete.
4th Pitch -
5.12a, 75 feet, 6 bolts:
After your 350+ foot warm up, delicately climb knobs and crimps
up the right side of the stunning arete. Even after the difficulties
ease, the wildly exposed position, bolt spacing, and the nature
of the climbing keeps your attention.
5th Pitch -
5.11b, TCU's, cams to 2 inches, and full set of stoppers.
After leaving the belay, you very quickly get down to business.
This crack is steep and you are on your arms the whole time. About
50 feet out from the belay look for the exit to the bolted headwall.
Perfect stone covered with beautiful edges and pockets leads to
a very exciting finish. Big clean falls are possible on this pitch.
use two ropes or a 70-meter rope and rappel the route. A 60-meter
could leave you within inches of the belay. Another option is topping
out and walking off.
Emde, Jim Abalo 8-6-04
Lawson, August 9, 2004