Love variety? From easy to extreme, kick back on some 5.8s on The Peanut and the Fourth Horseman or go crank on a cluster of 5.12s and 13s on Churning Buttress.

They are just three of the six areas that comprise the Morning Glory Wall. It butts up to Cocaine Gully on its left side. Head left at the bridge and then peel off of the River Trail as you just pass Shiprock. Look up for the composting toilet and follow the stairs to the base of the wall. Not hard to spot, this excellent 350 foot wall of rock is a magnet for climbers near and far.

Coming in the late spring or summer? You might want to wait for the rock to cool off in the early evening. The sunlit wall can easily soak up an additional 10 degrees over air temperature.

climbers on Five Gallon Buckets on Morning Glory Wall at Smith Rock State Park
climbers on Five Gallon Buckets on Morning Glory Wall at Smith Rock State Park
climber waiting to get on the Peanut on Morning Glory Wall at Smith Rock State Park

climber waiting to get on the Peanut on Morning Glory Wall at Smith Rock State Park


Ready to rock? We thought so.Here are some suggestions: (All are rated 3 star in Alan Watts' Guidebook, with * noting a 4 star)


Rolling Stones Wall


5.11:

  • Exile on Main Street 5.11a  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch



Cocaine Gully-Upper Left Wall


5.11:

  • *Bloodshot 5.11b sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch

5.12:

  • Quest to Fire 5.12a  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Crack Babies 5.12b  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

5.13:

  • RUnt 5.13d  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch


Churning Buttress


5.12:

  • Cool Ranch Flavor finish 5.12a  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Da Kine Corner 5.12c  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Doritos 5.12c  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Kings of Rap 5.12d  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch 


5.13:

  • *Churning in the Wake 5.13a  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Churning Sky 5.13a  sport, 13 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Taco Chips 5.13a  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Churning in the Ozone 5.13b  sport, 15 bolts, 1 pitch 

  • Oxygen 5.13bsport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Signs of the Times 5.13b  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Waste Case 5.13b  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Mr. Tapeworm 5.13c  sport, 14 bolts, 1 pitch

  • White Heat 5.13c  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Vicious Fish 5.13c  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch


Overboard Area


 
5.10:

  • Nine Gallon Buckets start 5.10a  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Nine Gallon Buckets 5.10c  sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Lion's Chair start 5.10c  mixed to 1 inch, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • Lion's Chair 5.11a R  mixed to 3 1/2 inches, 1 pitch

  • Magic Light 5.11asport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Overboard 5.11c  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Overboard extension 5.11d  sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.12:

  • Magic Light Extension 5.12a  sport, 14 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Energy Crisis 5.12b  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Sketch Pad 5.12d  sport, 15 bolts, 1 pitch


5.13:

  • Mane Line 5.13a  sport, 15 bolts, 1 pitch


Zebra Area


5.8:

  • Five Gallon Buckets  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Lion's Jaw  trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch


5.9:

  • The Outsiders  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.10:

  • Light on the Path 5.10a  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Zebra 5.10a  mixed to 3 inches, 5 bolts, 3 pitches

  • *Zion (alt. 3rd pitch of Zebra) 5.10a   trad, 4 pitches

  • Gumby 5.10bsport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Lion Zion 5.10c  sport, 14 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Morning Sky 5.10c sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • Zebra Direct 5.11a  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Zebra Seam 5.11d  sport. 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • CAT Scan 5.11d  sport, 18 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.12:

  • Choss in America 5.12  sport, 13 bolts, 1 pitch


The Peanut


5.8:

  • Hop on Pop  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Peanut Brittle  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.10:

  • Pop Goes the Nubbin 5.10asport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch


The Fourth Horseman


5.7:

  • Friday's Jinx  R  trad, gear to 2 inches, 2 pitches
     

5.8:

  • Pack Animal R  trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch
     

5.9:

  • Snuffy Smith  sport, 1 pitch, 80'
     

5.10:

  • Crack of Infinity  5.10b  trad, gear to 3 inches, 3 pitches

  • *Pack Animal Direct 5.10b  trad, gear to 1 inch, 1 pitch

  • *Calamity Jam 5.10c  trad, gear to 2 inches, 1 pitch

  • Taiwan On 5.10c  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Wielded Tuff  5.10c  TR, 1 pitch

  • Headless Horseman 5.10d  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • John Galt Line 5.11b  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.12:

  • Catastrophic Crack 5.12a  R  trad, gear to 2 inches, 1 pitch


climbing areas