Not wanting to hump your gear all over the park, or need somewhere with a variety of base routes to snag some afternoon shade?


The imposing 700 foot high Picnic Lunch Wall is just a quick hop up from the bridge on the stairs of the Misery Ridge Trail. While most of the climbing at Smith is on a lot better rock, there are still some decent routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.14, including some aid climbs on the left half of the cliff.

While we point out the crumbling Shiprock, it's only to tell you to just take pictures and be on your way. The crumbling rhyolite, while hard, has fractures that pull off when least expected.

climber on Picnic Lunch Wall at Smith Rock State Park
climber on Picnic Lunch Wall at Smith Rock State Park

Some choice routes of the area though:  (All are rated 3-star in Alan Watts' Guidebook, with * noting a 4-star)
NOTE:  
see seasonal closure information for this area


5.9:

  • Voyage of the Cow Dog  5.9 sport, 9 bolts, 3 pitches

  • Honey Pot 5.9  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.10:

  • Teddy Bear's Picnic 5.10b sport, 12 bolts, 2 pitches
     

5.11:

  • Highway 97 5.11b,  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Touch 5.11c sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Bubbas in Bondage 5.11d  mixed to 1 inch, 1 pitch
     

5.12:

  • Five Easy Pieces start 5.12a  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.13:

  • Five Easy Pieces 5.13a  sport, 14 bolts, 5 pitches
     

5.14:

  • The Big R 5.14a  sport, 15 bolts, 1 pitch


climbing areas