Looking to crank on some hard stuff? The Wooden Ships and her gullies won't disappoint.


While some of the easiest bolted routes on the ships are 5.7, the gullies are a different story. Just to the left of Shiprock, the two ribs of the East and West Ships carve out three gullies. A special place where those with a thing for endurance challenges get satisfaction.

climbers on the Western Ship at Smith Rock State Park
climbers on the Western Ship at Smith Rock State Park

Hang a left at the bridge past Picnic Lunch Wall and follow the River Trail for just over .15 miles until you cut up the first stair-cased hill trail to the gullies.

The right side of the East Ship is home to the bulgy, bolted routes of Shiprock Gully. Cocaine Gully and its vertical faces border the left face of the West Ship.

In between the two crags lies the mother lode of overhanging routes--Aggro Gully. A shady refuge from the summer heat, as well as a sunny spot on cold days, the gullies are choice for year-round climbing.

climbers on Cocaine Gully at Smith Rock State Park
climbers on Cocaine Gully at Smith Rock State Park

Explore the whole area, from ships to gullies by checking out some of these: (All are rated 3-star in Alan Watts' Guidebook, with * noting a 4-star)


East Ship-Shipwreck Wall


5.8:

  • Time to Shower  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.9:

  • Phone Call From Satan  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • More Sandy Than Kevin 5.11asport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Blue Light Special 5.11b  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Purple Aces 5.11b  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Riptide 5.11b sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.12:

  • Bolt from the Blue 5.12asport, 15 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Liquid Jade 5.12b  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Undertow 5.12bsport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Time to Power 5.12csport, 16 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Tsunami 5.12csport, 13 bolts, 1 pitch


Table Scraps Wall


5.10: 

  • Fish 'n Chips 5.10c  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

  • The Skipper's Little Buddy 5.10d  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch


Aggro Gully


5.11: 

  • Pouch Whisker 5.11b  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Toxic 5.11c  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Up For Grabs 5.11d sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.12:

  • Planet Mechanic 5.12a  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Scrotal Avenger 5.12a  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Monkey Boy 5.12c  sport, 1 pitch, 60'

  • The Quickening 5.12d  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.13:

  • Kill the Hate 5.13a  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Aggro Monkey 5.13b  sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Scene of the Crime 5.13b  sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Disposable Heros 5.13c  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

  • The Burl Master 5.13c  sport,  8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Lucky Pigeon (aka Partners in Crime) 5.13c  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Mama Docus 5.13c  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch

  • White Wedding 5.13d  sport,  11 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.14:

  • Repeat Offender 5.14a  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Villain 5.14a  sport, 13 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Bad Man 5.14a  sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Shotgun Wedding 5.14b  sport, 15 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Shock and Awe 5.14csport, 16 bolts, 1 pitcH


West Ship-River Face



5.7:

  • Purple Headed Warrior  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

5.8:

  • Time to Shower  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

5.9:

  • Phone Call From Satan  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

5.13:

  • Time's Up 5.13b  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Power 5.13b  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Slit Your Wrists 5.13b  sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.14:

  • Mr. Yuk 5.14a  sport, 13 bolts, 1 pitcH


Cocaine Gully


5.10:

  • Chicken McNuggets 5.10b  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Powder Up The Nose 5.10d  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • Armageddon 5.11a  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Vomit Launch 5.11b  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.12:

  • Freebase 5.12a  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

  • The Blade 5.12a  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch


climbing areas